Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Fresh mixed cases from Tanners

Spectator Competition: Memorials for monsters 
issue 27 April 2024

I was snitched on last week. You know how it is – after a long, wine-soaked lunch in town, I tottered off full of bonhomie to catch the train back to Skid Row-on-Sea and, to ward off any incipient hangover, nipped into M&S for a couple of those little plastic bottles of rosé they have in the chiller.

I found myself a table, spread myself out a bit, hummed a cheery tune and beamed at one and all just to be friendly. The rosé had gone by Gatwick and it was good to be alive. Well, it was until I got home and found Mrs R on the doorstep with the rolling pin, hissing that I’d been spotted drunk on the train and must go straight to my room with no supper. That was my balloon pricked.

I came to these wines from Tanners expectant – and they didn’t disappoint

Three alcohol-free days were insisted upon, meaning I came to these wines from Tanners fresh, unsullied and expectant – and they didn’t disappoint. Indeed, I was so taken that we’re cramming nine in this week and, Robert Boutflower of Tanners being the gent he is, you can devise your own mixed case.

The Tanners Extra Reserve Rosé Champagne (1) is gorgeous. Produced by the exemplary Beaumont des Crayères co-operative near Epernay, it’s full of succulent wild strawberry fruit with the gentlest of mousses. It’s a steal, considering what the Grandes Marques charge. £32 down from £36.

The 2023 Domaine Beauséjour Sauvignon de Touraine ‘Les Silex’ (2) is textbook Sauvignon from the Loire, full of grass, citrus, asparagus and gooseberry, complete with a dry mineral finish. It’s so refreshing and such a brilliant aperitif. £11.70 down from £13.20.

The 2022 Fina ‘Kebrilla’ Grillo (3) is made from Grillo harvested in both Sicily and the tiny island of Mozia, which sits in the Stagnone Lagoon near Marsala.

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