Food: Raiding the fridge

The new hotel W looms like a giant fridge over Leicester Square. They demolished the poor old Swiss Centre to build it as part of the regeneration programme because some people don’t know that some things can’t be regenerated. I often pass through Leicester Square on a Saturday night and it is like watching the golden calf incident, but in 1981. You will see a man punching a woman, or some children dressed as wizards waving at a boy (usually Daniel Radcliffe) who looks sorry he ever heard of wizards. It is the holy of holies of Trash Culture (London branch) and it smells terrible.

Anyway, W, which has a restaurant I will get to shortly, wasn’t built. It landed. It is immense, white and windowless. I almost expect it to swing open and expose a giant pint of milk and some salad cream. Just for weirdness it has an M&M superstore in the basement, selling M&M-branded chocolates, soft toys and, for all I know, nuclear weapons.