Sometimes I think luxury is a joke played on the rich by the not-so rich. In my mind, people on the 20p tax rate have a focus group, and design things to sell to the rich, and laugh. And I think this explains sandals with mink T-bars, most watches and now Hix, a restaurant under a hotel in Belgravia. Hix looks like a Travelodge. I do not say that to be mean, or because I can. It occupies a dim half-basement under a hotel. You may not have visited a Travelodge, but I have, and the restaurant is always a half-basement under a hotel, with shouting children and a buffet. So it is exactly like a Travelodge, with the children removed. But it is in Belgravia, where everyone has been removed; the only humans I saw on the way to Hix were the police outside the Syrian embassy, poised to remove yet more people from Belgravia, should they try anything dodgy.
Tanya Gold
Food: Luxury comedy
issue 24 March 2012
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