Douglas Murray Douglas Murray

Following Napoleon: my exile in St Helena

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issue 27 April 2024

St Helena

Douglas Murray has narrated this article for you to listen to.

In an attempt to escape from the world, I have come with friends to St Helena. It is quite a good place for the exercise. Until a few years ago the only way to get to the island was a five-day boat voyage from Cape Town. Shortly before Covid, an airport for this British overseas territory was finally completed at UK taxpayer expense. To protect some local insects the runway was put at a slightly wrong angle, making it difficult – sometimes impossible – to land. The weekly flight from Johannesburg therefore refuels in Namibia in case landing is impossible and the plane has to about-turn.

A lifesize statue of Napoleon stands on the balcony. It takes a few days to get used to him

Jamestown is not the busiest metropolis, but for the island’s population of around 4,000 people this harbour town is the hub. The Consulate Hotel on the main street running down to the sea is run by the lovely Hazel and is a warren of rooms and memorabilia relating to the island. A lifesize statue of Napoleon Bonaparte stands on the balcony overlooking the street. It takes a few days to get used to him being over your shoulder as you take a morning coffee or the first drink of the day.

Exploring the hotel, I found a grand piano and put my fingers to work. While playable, it was slightly out of tune. I enquired whether this could be fixed and it was explained that the island’s piano tuner is in jail.

Down by the harbour that evening, I got chatting to a local friend who – like all the other islanders – attended the only school, which is named after Prince Andrew.

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