Faultless food with the promise of vengeance: The Trough, reviewed

Lady Bamford’s Cotswold fairy-land Daylesford Farm has sprouted leaves. It is no longer a farm shop, which should be a humble thing. I went to the Chypraze farm shop at Morvah last month, for instance. The proprietor only had honey, he said, and also pork, because he had just killed a pig. Daylesford is a sort of Las Vegas-themed hotel, invoking something half–imagined from something half-real. Caesar’s Palace; the Paris; the Luxor; the Venetian; Le Petit Trianon; Moreton-in-Marsh! It is not uncharming – many of us have a parallel life in which we live in Lady Bamford’s Cotswold fairy-land, on a pile of Lady Bamford’s dragon gold – but it is a travesty, and it should have a floor show.

On a morning in the Easter holidays, it is packed. Nose-to-tail Range Rovers; thankfully mine, which is borrowed, is bigger and newer than yours.