Clarke Hayes

Fare’s fair

There’s a fair glut of food festivals going on all across the country in the coming weeks, reflecting — and rightly so — the harvest.

issue 15 September 2007

There’s a fair glut of food festivals going on all across the country in the coming weeks, reflecting — and rightly so — the harvest.

There’s a fair glut of food festivals going on all across the country in the coming weeks, reflecting — and rightly so — the harvest. But how retro is that? Fantastic! Even better, to my mind, is that it proves that our collective mindset has changed dramatically — we are growing ever prouder of our food and its local provenance, willing even to think that British might really be best. That in itself is cause for celebration.

My local is the second annual Hastings Seafood and Wine Festival (22-23 September). This one neatly conflates the old and the new. Hastings’s fishing industry is older than memory itself — we still boast Europe’s largest land-based fishing fleet, modest both in number and size of boats and nets.

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