Sophia Waugh

English Cooking: Discover the true value of pie

Christmas is the ideal time to revive traditional English recipes

issue 28 November 2015

We all know what we think of as the great English Christmas lunch/dinner — turkey (originally from America) or goose (a worldwide bird, first domesticated in Ancient Egypt), Brussels sprouts (from Rome via Belgium), potatoes (also from the Americas). So, in fact, there is no such thing as a great English feast. Or is there?

While the poor had little choice of food, the English traditionally knew how to feast. Christmas, which took over from the Roman pagan festival of Saturnalia, has for centuries been the year’s best excuse for eating, drinking, dancing, and showing off – showing off not just in silly tinsel hats, but in what you spread before your guests on the table.

The stuffed bird is a key centrepiece of any English feast. Peacocks, swans and geese were all eaten — the bigger the better.

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