Tanya Gold Tanya Gold

Elle Decoration meets pub food

Serge et le Phoque is a sequel to a celebrated Hong Kong restaurant, but how can it survive without fashion hags?

issue 14 October 2017

The Mandrake is a new ‘design hotel’ in London, which means it is for people who treat Elle Decoration magazine as their primary source of op-ed. It lives in a red-brick terrace in Fitzrovia and it feels very odd, like a corpse with the beating heart of a baby, perhaps even a Beckham baby: would it have preferred to demolish the crusty frontage and establish itself inside Heathrow Terminal 5, or a giant fridge? Who can say? And why is it named after a poisonous plant?

The entrance is dark, and haunted by black-suited men.

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