Tanya Gold

Eat here now: Darjeeling Express reviewed

Credit: Ming Tang Evans 
issue 01 April 2023

Darjeeling Express lives at the top of Kingly Court, just off Carnaby Street, which was once the world-famous embodiment of Swinging London but now seems the global capital of the sports shoe. No matter – Kingly Court, which is built in the shape of a medieval coaching inn, is a happy nook: it is shut away, which means you can’t see sport shoes from the window. It is small in scale; it is for Londoners in their thinning melting pot. Kingly Court already has a superb restaurant in Imad’s Syrian Kitchen. Darjeeling Express, newly opened, joins it on the second floor.

My companion calls the chicken kati the platonic ideal of aa KFC wrap, and he is right

It used to be a yoga studio, but I don’t let that bother me: the yoga hags have fled. It has high eaves, pretty windows and lamps that look like orbs. The walls are pale, the floors are wood.

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