Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

‘Each one is an absolute cracker’: six bottles courtesy of Armit Wines

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issue 04 November 2023

We’ve wines from four countries this week – France, Italy, South Africa and New Zealand – with two contrasting Chardonnays, a pair of Pinots and a brace of Bordeaux blends. Each one is an absolute cracker (you also have the word of Mrs Ray on this since, having run out of gin, she decided she wasn’t too busy to help me narrow the selection down to six bottles, after all) and each one is heavily discounted by those lovely folk at Armit Wines – by up to 35 per cent in one instance.

Two contrasting Chardonnays, a pair of Pinots and a brace of Bordeaux blends. Each is an absolute cracker

The 2021 Cantele Teresmanara Chardonnay (1) from Puglia’s Salento peninsula in the heel of Italy’s boot, is part-steel fermented, part-barrel fermented and aged on the lees in a mix of new, first- and second-fill oak barriques for eight months. Lightly honeyed on the nose, with hints of lemon and freshly cut pears, it’s supple and rounded in the mouth with touches of grapefruit and lemon cream and a faint hint of that honey again. ‘More please!’ was Mrs R’s comment. £15 down from £19.65.

The Delaire Graff estate in Stellenbosch, South Africa, owned by the jeweller Laurence Graff, is more than just a vineyard with its gardens, art collection, spa, restaurant and boutique lodges. None of these would survive, though, if the wines made there weren’t top-class – and the 2021 Delaire Graff Estate Banghoek Reserve Chardonnay (2) is just that. Whole bunch pressed and fermented and aged in small French oak barrels, it’s full of ripe tropical fruit, citrus, honey-suckle and vanilla with a long, dry, stylish finish. ‘More please!’ came the refrain. £20.83 down from £32.19.

The 2021 Paddy Borthwick Paper Road Pinot Noir (3) from the Wairarapa in the south-east corner of New Zealand’s North Island, is right up Mrs Ray’s street.

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