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Welcome back to Berry Bros. & Rudd, the unfeasibly posh wine merchants in St James’s, London. They left The Spectator fold some years ago, but are now home again, which is why the other day I found myself pushing through the creaking front door, crossing the creaking floorboards, then climbing the creaking stairs, all in the company of creaking -servitors. (No, I made that bit up! In the company of enthusiastic, helpful young -persons!)

BB&R do not do cheapo. You would not pop in and ask for something to go with your chicken vindaloo, though if you did I am sure the staff would try to accommodate you. You are more likely to see, as I did a couple of Christmases ago, a well-dressed man buy two bottles of Château Palmer at £200 each. This is not Tesco. In their fine wine collection, I have spotted the priciest Burgundies at more than £7,000 a bottle.