Bruce Anderson

Drink: Mature consideration

issue 18 February 2012

It started with a ’99 Margaux, which commanded general agreement from the Brits around the table. Nose, length, balance, harmony: all delectable. It was a velvety, feminine wine, full of promise. Even so, the home team concluded, it was not really ready. The Frenchman in our company could not have disagreed more. ‘You English — you are a nation of necrophiliacs. This wine is excellent; how could you say that it isn’t ready?’ I gave battle. As the fruit and the tannins had not fully come together, we were only drinking 70 per cent of the wine. Give it another three or five years, and they would make love in an ecstatic consummation.

The Grenouille shook his head. ‘Pauvres Rosbifs; you come from the cold North and you can never escape it. You don’t know how to enjoy yourselves. You think you like wine, but you make it an arid subject surrounded by technicalities.

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