Daisy Dunn

Don’t tell them but the French didn’t in fact invent etiquette

Plus: a beautiful Easter meditation on trees

Jacopo Pontormo's portrait of Giovanni della Casa, c.1541/44, the author of Il Galateo, one of Europe's earliest etiquette guides. Photo: Heritage Art / Heritage Images / Getty Images 
issue 30 March 2024

When dining in France, it is considered rude to finish the bread before the main course has been served, and ruder still to slice the bread with a knife, lest the crumbs land in a lady’s décolletage. In China, you should never place your chopsticks upright in a bowl of rice, and in Bangladesh you may eat with your fingers, but should avoid getting sauce above the knuckles.

If you are guilty of any of the above, may I direct you, politely, to a new documentary on the World Service. The programme takes aim at many outdated traditions (including those that resign women to the kitchen), but the conversation is far more informative than censorious and more eye-opening than dour. It makes for particularly delicious listening for the English, for we have long prided ourselves on our good manners, not least in relation to the French.

Our Gallic neighbours, it seems, have laid claim to the invention of etiquette on rather dubious grounds.

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