If you’re thinking of moving to Sydney, forget it. That slice of unsolicited advice was offered when I made my third visit in little more than a year. The idea of actually settling in Sydney has never crossed my mind, but for those who are contemplating such a move the advice is sage stuff. Sydney is a city in crisis: house prices are sky high, on a par with those in London; the urban sprawl has reached its limits; the roads are clogged, and the reservoirs are running dry. I suggest to a city shopkeeper that the airport authorities should hang a ‘No Vacancies’ sign under the ‘Welcome to Sydney’ banner. He responds with a laconic smile and offers to sell me a chain of ‘No Worry Beads’. Nice try. For all their problems, Sydneysiders remain robustly optimistic and brimming with can-do self-confidence. This is evident at Bondi beach, where scores of surfers, clad in sinister black wetsuits, defy the chilly spring weather to lie in wait for the dream wave.
issue 15 October 2005
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