Deep Burgundy

‘There lies the dearest freshness deep down things’ — and also the dearest Frenchness. It is easy to be rude about the French governing elite; indeed, it is impossible to be polite about them. But there is a France profonde, with a deep-rooted identity, like gnarled, ancient vines. There are said to be nearly 400 French cheeses; la France profonde has at least as many capitals, where things are done in the old way, with a combination of commercial realism, ancestral piety and devotion to the terroir.

You will find all that in Gevrey-Chambertin, a modest, confident and enchanting little town, in which history is now, and Burgundy. This is especially true at the house of Pierre Bourée, which has been mentioned before in this column, in a vain attempt to do justice to the commitment which is devoted to the craft. ‘Justice’ is an appropriate word, for their Clos de la Justice is an excellent and deceptive wine.