The Spectator

December Wine Club

This is our positively final offer for Christmas, and it’s terrific. Thanks to Lay & Wheeler we have half a dozen French classics, all of which would be very welcome on the Yuletide dinner table, or at a memorable party. What’s more, every one is generously discounted. They are not cheap wines, but they are tremendous value.

issue 08 December 2007

This is our positively final offer for Christmas, and it’s terrific. Thanks to Lay & Wheeler we have half a dozen French classics, all of which would be very welcome on the Yuletide dinner table, or at a memorable party. What’s more, every one is generously discounted. They are not cheap wines, but they are tremendous value.

Take the magnificent 1966 Lay & Wheeler 150th Anniversary Cuvée Champagne (1). It’s made by the people at Duval-Leroy, and at £27, its list price, it is a good buy. For £22 (a £60 discount per case) it’s incredible. You can easily pay that for a non-vintage champagne from one of those companies that seem to spend more on advertising than on wine-making. This is a rich, complex champagne, offering all those wonderful biscuity, toasty, vanilla, and fresh peach flavours. It’s a wine that seems to caress the tongue (sorry, getting carried away here). They say that the test of a great champagne is that it tastes just as good when it’s gone flat; I had meant to try this out, but I couldn’t because three of us just glugged the whole lot with silly smiles on our faces. Completely delicious.

The Pouilly-Fuissé Chevrières 2005 from the Domaine de Lalande (2) is a gorgeous Burgundy, full and fat in flavour, slightly honeyed yet bone-dry, perfectly balanced and with a steely backbone. (Making it sound a bit like Daniel Craig. Apologies.) Again, this would be excellent value at the listed £17, but we’re offering it for £14.75. Acquire it.

Also reduced by more than 12 per cent is our 2006 Sancerre from Hubert Brochard (3). He has called this Aujourd’hui Comme Autrefois, which I suppose could translate, in the words of Karen Carpenter, as Yesterday Once More.

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