Crimes against breakfast

Sketch is a restaurant and art gallery in Conduit Street, Mayfair. There is a photograph of the Queen in the lobby. It is a wonderful photograph of her because she is covered in white fur and her eyes are closed, as if she just can’t bear to look at us any more. She looks like a tired rabbit human rebuking God.

Sketch, then. Its website shows a video of a rotating floral egg. It lives in the former atelier of Christian Dior in a house by James Wyatt — what is grander than that? It is a white miniature palace with three bays, which is a lot in this particular housing crisis, in which other restaurants must make do with only one bay, or even no bays. The effect of preening Age of Enlightenment Italianate man cave is ruined, very slightly, by the presence of a stone cat — or maybe it’s a dog, it’s not clear — walking down the outside wall of the building, as if considering a visit to Vivienne Westwood opposite, so it can dress up as a tartan dog-pirate.