Courage on the high seas

The Shetland Islands and the Faroes may seem to be somewhere out there in distant waters, marginal and in the greater scheme of things not very important in the history of the world. But from a maritime perspective it is precisely the fact that they are suspended in mid-ocean, surrounded by water that teems with fish (if one knows where to look) that has given them a role in human history out of all proportion to their size. In his fascinating account of the part played by these islands in the harvesting of cod and herring from the North Atlantic, John Goodlad raises vital questions about the world’s food supplies. He also brings to light the heroic endeavours of the poor and humble fisherfolk who mastered fierce Atlantic storms and experienced shipwreck in order to bring food to our everyday table.

Beguiled by the sight of modern massive trawlers that use sonar to identify shoals, and are often in consequence guilty of massive overfishing, we forget the sheer physical struggle that was demanded of Shetlanders when they used to set out in their small sailing boats, not unlike those of their Viking ancestors. They could read the seas without any sophisticated instruments and they identified where the fish might lie through canny instinct. They hauled in their catch by hand, while being tossed around by the waves.

We also forget how important fish has been, and remains, in feeding the world. Goodlad reports that fish remains the prime source of protein across the globe, with 180 million tons being consumed annually, significantly more than chicken or red meat: ‘Without fish, the world’s population could not be fed.’ This means that those who regard eating fish as a crime against nature have gravely over-simplified the problem of making fish sustainable. The author believes this must be done through good management.