Cairo Diary: Libyan transit

The road from Cairo to Salloum, Egypt’s Wild West town on the border with Libya, stretches out into the desert until the patched-up, grey and black cement blurs into the yellow dunes. Throughout the journey, well-kept electricity pylons line the road, while the occasional shepherd looks out from a desolate shed-like house. Otherwise there is nothing to see. 

This is the road to war, or away from it. I expected to see more people fleeing the conflict; but at the last roadside café, life seems to be following its normal routine. Bedouin waiters mingle quietly with smugglers, relief workers and the occasional journalist. In the background, President Obama’s speech is on TV but only one person is watching. Fava beans with fried liver is the best choice for breakfast. It is also the only choice.

Salloum is tumbleweed quiet. Unlike on the Tunisian side, there are no refugee camps because the Egyptians won’t allow them.