The Spectator

Books and arts – 23 April 2015

issue 25 April 2015

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John Sturgis

The restaurant where time (and prices) have stood still

From Spectator Life
Walking into this crowded and clattering restaurant for the first time in more than 30 years, two things strike me almost immediately: 1) it seems to be largely unchanged and 2) the prices have scarcely risen. I can’t claim to have tried every wine list in Soho, but I can tell you with certainty that

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