Bogs, midges and blinding rain: the joys of trekking in the Highlands

Raynor Winn’s first book, The Salt Path, was a genuine phenomenon. Having been evicted from their farm after 20 years, she and her husband Moth, who suffers from a degenerative disease, set off on a courageous walk around the south-west of England in the hope of restoring his health and finding a new life. It was a deserved international bestseller.

Landlines picks up the story. Although walking proved a temporary respite for Moth, his corticobasal degeneration (CBD) – which the medics advised was without treatment or cure – takes a turn for the worse. Raynor decides to commit to another walk, to ‘let the oxygen back in and for the spark to regenerate’. And not just any walk. She suggests to Moth they embark on the Cape Wrath Trail, generally thought to be the hardest of British long distance routes, often unsignposted and always arduous.