Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

Beautiful bottles from Swig Wines to enhance your Christmas drinking

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issue 16 December 2023

So, this is it, the final offer of the year. Mrs Ray says I can drink whatever I need in whatever quantity just as long as I stop banging on about how miserable a month December is. Thanks to these beauties from Swig Wines, I’ve been silence personified, if a little squiffy, and should just about make it through. I trust they’ll help you too.

The 2022 Sauvignon À Peu Près (1) with its jaunty label and immaculate winemaking looks and tastes far better than a lowly Val de Loire IGP should. Produced by David and Shirley Maudry in the heart of the Loire Valley from 100 per cent Sauvignon Blanc, it would be a far grander Pouilly Fumé if only its vineyards were mere yards in one direction or another. Balanced and rounded with typical gooseberry, cut grass and zingy citrus fruit, it’s an absolute delight and would fool many a PF or Sancerre lover. Mrs Ray said she would happily drink the whole bottle and, dear reader, jolly nearly did. £12.50 per down from £15.50.

It’s delicate and ethereal and the more you swirl the glass the more you get out of it

The 2022 Stéphane Ogier ‘Le Temps est Venu’ (2) is another crowd-pleaser, this time a white Côtes du Rhône from one of the great names of the region. A blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Bourboulenc and Clairette, it’s wonderfully appealing, with fresh fruit on the nose, the faintest prickle on the tongue and plenty of creamy apricotty, almondy flavours on the finish. £15.35 per down from £18.35.

I love the 2022 AA Badenhorst Secateurs Chenin Blanc (3) from Swartland, South Africa. Adi Badenhorst is an eccentric genius whose fabulous Family White Blend is a bonkers mix of some 12 different grape varieties which would never be made anywhere else in the world.

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