Matthew Parris Matthew Parris

Another Voice | 6 June 2009

We call it ‘antiquity’. And yet, in this imperial Roman city, it seemed like yesterday

issue 06 June 2009

We call it ‘antiquity’. And yet, in this imperial Roman city, it seemed like yesterday

Call to mind London’s Regent Street. Suppose it straight, not curved. Suppose it about the same width but more than twice as long: a mile and a quarter. Picture it lined on each side not with shop fronts but with richly carved marble columns, more than 2,000 of them, approaching the height of Regent Street’s roof line. Top those columns with supporting massive, decorated stone lintels laid across. Picture the street paved not with tarmac but with stone slabs rutted with the grooves of a million cart and carriage wheels. Imagine it as the Champs Elysées of an imperial Roman city. Now place it on a high, stony, plateau in Syria, overlooking the wide valley and rich farmland of the Orontes river. Call it Apamea.

It existed. It still does. Much of it is there today, standing alone in the middle of bare fields in open country, hardly observed, some of its columns fallen in earthquakes, hundreds of them (I counted 606) upright.

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