David Gilmour

All these Indias

David Gilmour enjoys an idiosyncratic journey around this vast country of sometimes unbearable contrasts

issue 22 January 2011

Some years ago I went to a dinner party in Lucknow, capital of India’s Uttar Pradesh, where the hosts and their guests were Hindus who as children had fled Lahore in 1947 at the time of Partition. A week later I was in Lahore, capital of Pakistan’s Punjab, and found myself in a house where the other diners were Muslim refugees who at a similar age had come from Lucknow. Midway through the second meal, I suddenly realised how similar the two groups of middle-class professional people were. Lawyers, teachers, booksellers and architects, they shared the same tastes and the same worries, their chief anxiety being that their belligerent governments had both recently acquired nuclear weapons. The dinner parties might have been interchangeable, but for the whisky in Lucknow and the orange juice in Lahore.

As my friends talked of the tragedy of partition, I wondered at its futility. Did not these groups demonstrate that it had been unnecessary as well as tragic because they were essentially the same people, Indians who happened to have different faiths? Only afterwards did I realise that this was an illusion, that I had simply come across one of those increasingly rare intersections of Indian and Pakistani life.

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