Bruce Anderson

A voyage through fine wine off Sardinia

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issue 25 June 2022

One could get used to this. I come from seafaring stock, albeit distant. ‘Anderson’ suggests Viking antecedents, especially as my forebears came from the Shetland Islands. Yet there must have been something wrong with the first Anderson. Other Vikings reached Normandy, Sicily, even Byzantium. At the very least, they found the odd monastery to plunder. Later, their Norman descendants compensated for cultural destruction with cultural creation. But to endure the rigours of crossing from Norway and then disembark on Shetland? Was my remote ancestor seasick, or mutinous, or did he rape the cabin boy? We will never know.

A millennium or so later, life at sea was rather different. We were on a yacht, cruising between Sardinia and Corsica. A golden sun presided over a sapphire sea as we sailed among islands, beneath limestone cliffs topped by fishing villages – some fortified. In the background were granite mountains of infinite antiquity. This was a landscape made for mythology plus long history. You might expect to encounter a trireme laden with amphorae, or a Barbary pirate ship searching for slaves. Such expeditions were regular until shortly before the US Marines arrived at Tripoli in the 19th century: hence the fortified villages.

‘This is wrong on so many levels.’

Our expedition was enhanced by a superb crew. If they were merely pretending to take pleasure in our pleasure, they are all entitled to a gold Equity card. Among them was a hugely promising young chef who delighted in making local ingredients sing: superb fish, often raw, including sea urchin, a delight of mine – but reinforced by forays into wagyu beef.

The wine did not fall short. Which was best: the Krug, the Dom Pérignon or the Polly Roger Cuvée Winston Churchill? I could have tried to rack my palate into differentiating between magnificences.

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