Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

A vinous scoop for Spectator readers

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issue 30 March 2024

Klaxon alert! We’ve a bona fide Spectator scoop and if you love Chateau Musar as much as I think you do – and all Speccie readers love Ch. Musar – then please get your skates on!

Our good friends at Mr Wheeler are giving us ten days before anyone else (including the Wine Society) in which to snap up the newly released 2018 Ch. Musar. Not only that, but we’ve also a pair of exquisite back vintages I would hate you to miss, along with the estate’s white and two simpler reds.

The 2017 Ch. Musar White (1) takes a while to get used to, being unlike any other white wine I can think of, though – as I’ve said here before – there’s a passing similarity to fine white Rhône. Once you do get used to this oak-fermented blend of two indigenous varieties – Obaideh and Merwah – though, I’d be amazed if you didn’t love it. The tastebuds just need time to recalibrate. It’s brimming with zesty citrus, fresh apples, honey, nuts, vanilla and a touch of umami savouriness and is blooming tasty. £34.95 down from £38.95.

The wines have come direct from Lebanon into Mr Wheeler’s cellars and the provenance is impeccable

The 2021 Musar Jeune Red (2), with its dizzy-making, psychedelic red label, is the estate’s entry-level red, made from concrete-fermented, young vine Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cinsault, blended expressly for carefree drinking. Similar in quality to a fine Côtes du Rhône Villages, it has an uplifting freshness and a pleasing, teasing complexity, and is hugely enjoyable with its lively, ripe bramble fruit and hint of spice. £15.95 down from £17.95.

The 2019 Hochar Père et Fils Red (3) is a single vineyard wine of real quality that sits between the above wine and the grand vin. A blend of Grenache (mainly), Cinsault and Cab Sauv, aged in Nevers oak barrels, it’s rich, ripe and fulfilling with plenty of sweet, juicy fruit, spice and herbs.

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