Anne de Courcy

A love story — with clothes as heroes

Claire Wilcox recalls her years in the textile department of the V&A and the many radical couture exhibitions she curated

Finishing touches are put to Savage Beauty at the V&A, 2015 — the largest retrospective of Alexander McQueen’s work to be presented in Europe, curated by Claire Wilcox. Credit: Alamy 
issue 07 November 2020

On the weekly ‘opinions’ afternoons, the public would arrive with carefully wrapped parcels holding items to be identified, writes Claire Wilcox. Sometimes this was a length of Brussels lace, sometimes a gown that could be dated not just to the year but to the season, because the fashion then was known:

Once, someone brought a box of medieval leather shoes and everyone was sent home while a specialist in protective clothing and mask was called in, in case they had come from a plague pit.

She was talking of the textile department of the Victoria & Albert Museum, where she had been senior curator of fashion since 2004. Among exhibitions she has organised at the museum are Radical Fashion, Vivienne Westwood, The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957 and Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty. She also instigated live catwalk events in the museum and has numerous other distinctions.

The Romans, with their hand-spun wool, were as driven mad by clothes moths as we are

In short, Professor Wilcox, a fashion intellectual, not only cares about clothes and the materials they are made of, she has a deep interest in their history.

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