Julie Bindel

A beginner’s guide to Hungarian food and drink

It’s unfussy – and all the better for it

  • From Spectator Life
A rather dainty looking bowl of mushroom soup (iStock)

The first time I tried the well-known Hungarian wine Tokaj, which I bought from an eastern European delicatessen in London, I was so taken with it that it quickly became a verb – and the expression ‘I was a bit Tokaj’d last night’ stuck. But I soon realised that there are so many wonderful versions of this wine that you will find one to suit every occasion, and a match for pretty much anything you eat. Options include bone dry, light as a feather, sweet, robust, and tannin-rich red. And I’m lucky enough to be drinking the dry variety here in Budapest. It has just a hint of honey, making it perfect with the dishes made with cheese and paprika sauces that are so popular across this landlocked nation.

‘Delicate food has no place in traditional Hungarian restaurants; it is rare to see plates adorned with edible flowers

I’m here for work, but – having realised during my many visits to this country that it’s not all about goulash – I’m making sure I have time to do a proper tour of the less well-known dishes and ingredients.

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