Isabel Hardman Isabel Hardman

The oddest thing people are stockpiling? Hens

issue 04 April 2020

Is there nothing people won’t panic-buy during this crisis? Having stripped shelves of food and toilet roll, shoppers are now turning to chickens. Coop company Omlet reports a 66 per cent rise in sales, and breeders have sold out of pullets. The British Hen Welfare Trust, which rehomes caged hens, has stopped taking new customers out of fear that the people bidding for their birds were either planning to eat them or didn’t really know how to look after them.

Keeping chickens does seem like a really good way of avoiding going to the shops. A good layer will give you an egg almost every day at this time of year and having a flock in your back garden will mean you’ll never run out. Your breakfasts will use eggs still warm from the hen’s bottom, so fresh they poach beautifully. The yolks of happy, healthy hens are a rich gold that’s nearly impossible to find in the supermarkets.

I had my own four hens for a few years and I miss them terribly, to the extent that they often flutter through my dreams.

Isabel Hardman
Written by
Isabel Hardman
Isabel Hardman is assistant editor of The Spectator and author of Why We Get the Wrong Politicians. She also presents Radio 4’s Week in Westminster.

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