Hannah Moore

48 hours of food in Andalusia

Iberian ham in Seville (iStock) 
issue 13 July 2024

In Spain, you can eat all day – and we did. Earlier in the summer, I spent two days in Andalusia, and most of the 48 hours were taken up by mealtimes. A breakfast of the sweet porridge poleá started the day, then ham-tasting for a mid-morning snack, followed by a two-hour lunch.

Spanish law requires that each Iberian pig gets 10,000 square metres to roam – a Cinco Jotas pig gets twice that

Spanish chef José Pizarro led the way, taking us to his favourite restaurants and showing us where he sources his ham and caviar. I ate some of the best fish I’ve ever tasted – seafood croquettes on the beachfront at Chiringuito Tropicana in Málaga; creamy black squid ink rolls with flaky crust dipped in aioli at Eslava. Locals are mad for these restaurants. When we visited Eslava, they queued past 11 for a table.

On the first evening we ate at the Cinco Jotas restaurant, sitting out in the dusk while swallows dipped in and out of the streetlights.

Get Britain's best politics newsletters

Register to get The Spectator's insight and opinion straight to your inbox. You can then read two free articles each week.

Already a subscriber? Log in

Comments

Join the debate for just $5 for 3 months

Be part of the conversation with other Spectator readers by getting your first three months for $5.

Already a subscriber? Log in